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Tutorial / Test: Use the 50mm objective MACRO ...

How is closing for you this 2010?

're photographing / create / mess in any form or by any means that you can think creatively?

I had planned other tutorials, but since that in these days, I took the opportunity to do some 'testing homemade camera, seem right to close the year with a final tutorial dedicated to photographic technique emergency:)

careful, I'm not inventing the 'hot : the lens reversed and used as a macro is a technique also used by our grandparents ... I knew you could do that but I never tried, with the excuse that I did not want to buy a ring inversion. Then I discovered that in fact ring inversion is not essential :)

So I had to try to force. And since we are on the whole satisfied with the tests, it seemed right, duty and perhaps even useful (for those who have not yet tried) to share my results.

If you want some technical data on what we're talking to, I suggest you look here:

http://www.fotoemonti.com/nozioni/la_macrofotografia . htm

In two words:
the difference between a normal lens and a macro lens is the minimum focusing . The macro lens is made to focus on objects very neighbors, regardless of focal length, thus offering magnification factors higher or lower. This is very cool.

Important Note: macro lenses cost a ball money. This is not cool at all . T_T

A macro lens is not mounted upside down behaves "more or less" as a macro, in that it enables you to focus ravvicinatissima distance (few cm). Of course the quality is not the same as the macro to one million euros, but if you're like me pulciari of starving, it's worth taking off the whim to try this technique. I see around the lens used to make this game the most is the 50mm f/1.8, which does not surprise me. I've documented on this, but I think it is because eye:

1) is easy to handle (the 50in is small and light)

2) is cheap and then have it all:)

3) gives very sharp images (despite the cost down) and then gives acceptable results even used upside down.

4) has a filter diameter of 52mm that fits perfectly (or near) the junction of the machine

guess is that this technique can also be used with lenses of different focal length from 50mm; personally have not tried. A nose I think makes it well with the fixed focal less well with the zoom.
But I have not dared to do the test with 24-70mm risk scratching the lens on the graft ... Loca, But not stupid;)

The ring inversion
is a tool that allows you to mount the lens in reverse: the filter is screwed in place and attaches the graft machine. In this article explains how to build one with the body cap and a filter to throw. But honestly, given that a ring inversion 52mm costs about 9 €, I think labor lost.

The good news is that the ring inversion is not essential to try this technique: we have two hands for luck. One holds the lens in reverse, and the other holding the camera and shoot.

Something of this kind, so the lens rests upside down on the graft of the machine:

And so you take:



Important notes:
before I find myself inundated with emails of people he has done damage, I recommend you do a great great great attention . There are delicate parts I am sure you will not scratch, damage, mess.
In particular, working with the machine "open" to allow themselves to be discovered contacts Electrical connecting the machine to target, the ' plug (for your sake that you do not recommend scratch) and mirror (same as above, if you do not want to say hello hello to autofocus). So
handled everything very carefully, especially when placing the lens reversed graft.
In this sense, yes, have the ring inversion is comfortable and reduces the risk of accidents.
course, pay close attention to the contacts on the lens .

also know that working this way will a lot junk inside your machine . So even if your "assistant" is a bit 'of my less hairy (that you see on the right), clean everything with a good anti-static cloth before you start, and get ready in any case have to clean the mirror and sensor when finished (just the pump, there is no need for liquidity and special shoes).
However do not consider myself responsible spots on your sensor ^ _ ^


Focus:
course, it's all manual. Put the ring quietly focus to infinity: the focus is adjusted closer and away from the subject. The plan will focus a few inches from the lens, it is "only" have a well-trained eye and a very firm hand.

Aperture and depth of field:
If you have already done some tests (unhooked the lens, put upside down and photographed as above) you'll notice a lot of fun little detail: you can not adjust the aperture. :)
The machine gives a value of 0. Obvious: have you forgotten that the lens contacts are on the side opposite to where they should be? :) So
on the machine you can only adjust the exposure time (and highly recommend remain in a shorter time of 1 / 125 unless you want a micro / macromosso).
On the other hand, when dropped from the target machine is always the diaphragm to its maximum aperture ... and if you are using the 50mm ... heck f/1.8 is not really the best for opening a macro !
Firstly, because the depth of field is really too small, and because it significantly affected by stray light (if not negligible) by grafting, in the absence of ring inversion is not strictly "watertight".

$ 1,000,000 Question: How do I adjust the aperture?
Unless you some of those old analog lens aperture ring with built-in, this is the trick.
1) adjust the aperture with the lens engaged on the machine (maybe even do some test shots to see if the exposure is correct)
2) hold down the control button depth of field while unlock the 'optics.
3) Repeat the process (assemble, adjust, lock, loose) every time you want to change aperture.

The depth of field control button (this stranger) is what usually is below the reset button lens (in Canon, in my old Nikon FE Similarly, in the modern Nikon I have no idea, look at the manual!):

Photos Thomas Hawk

Hands up who has never used ... I used when I shot in analogue and then I forgot it existed ... :)
To understand what makes the heat pump control button, set the aperture at f/5.6 (for example), grasping, and push it backward. Zac! The diaphragm closes (precisely) at f/5.6.

Now if dropped while the lens keep the diaphragm closed (by pressing the two buttons with two fingers like I do below, while dropped the lens with your other hand) will have the lens removed from the machine with the diaphragm opening that you have chosen.

Just to tell the difference:

f/1.8 f/5.6 f/11

focusing, aperture
If you close the diaphragm more than f / 8, I suggest you light the scene with a bright light you will otherwise face serious difficulties to focus at a Glance ... because even the view from the viewfinder is very dark:)
Of course, you will need lots of light for photographing, but I have solved the problem using the flash with ambient light as a result much lower than that of shooting, I added a table lamp to the set to simplify your focus (as f/11 and 1 / 200 of the light table lamp becomes negligible).
Lighting
For acceptable results in terms of depth of field, I noticed that you have to go up to f/8.0. At the same time, you can not use shutter speed too long because it would inevitably shake-. Then: either you buy the ring inversion, placed the machine on its stand (keeping in mind that the subjects should be very close to the lens) and we salute you ... or need much light.
I used the flash, of course triggered because the objects to be photographed too close to use the flash on the slide of the machine. I imagine that the ring flash to be a good solution.
But if you do not have flash and / or transmitter, you can certainly hold near a bright window, or using many lamps in continuous light (like the famous spot lights that can be bought from DIY)
Conclusions and considerations
Funny: )
worth investing 'sti € 9 blessed in a ring to make your life easier and do no harm (I "accidentally" used the 350D instead of the 5D), but we say that the 50mm macro has proved satisfactory as an emergency even by hand.
As I said, for yield acceptable would not go below f / 8 and longer time periods than 1 / 125.
In any case, it is not a difficult technique and with a little 'you can also attempts to have a fairly accurate focusing.
conclude with the pictures of my tests, for each there is a crop at 100% (to understand the level of detail that can be achieved). Note that they are all taken with the 350D has a sensor that does not sublime.
When I get the ring, also baptized the 5D:)
(for now only with the 5D I took the dragonfly that I inserted at the beginning of article)

This is the maximum magnification for the 50mm used "the right way" ( image is cropped, a minimum focusing distance)

And this is how they appear with the 50mm reversed, with different apertures.

Some fennel seeds:




Coffee Beans:




cinnamon sticks:



laser-printed paper packaging:




... and now please stop playing with the lens in reverse, and go get ready for New Year's Eve!
See you next year;)